The hoop has survived every fashion since antiquity by refusing to be about anything. Classic Mid Century Hoops, 18K gold, Sweden
Earrings are described by two separate things: the shape at the front and the fitting at the back. Sellers routinely mix the two up, so a listing will offer "drop earrings" without saying whether they screw, hook or clip, and a buyer with unpierced ears wastes an afternoon. Here is the vocabulary for both halves.
The shapes
Stud. A single element sitting flat against the lobe, fixed through the ear with a post. The whole design faces forward and nothing hangs.
Hoop. A ring passing through the lobe and closing on itself. Sized from tiny to enormous, and the classic that never leaves.
Huggie. A very small, thick hoop that sits close against the lobe rather than swinging. A modern term for an old shape.
Drop. Anything suspended below the ear that hangs rather than swings, usually a single element on a short fitting.
Dangle. A drop with movement. The distinction is a matter of degree and the words are used interchangeably.
Chandelier. A drop with several tiers or a spreading structure, the most formal of the family.
Climber, or ear crawler. A design that follows the edge of the lobe upward from the piercing rather than hanging from it.
Jacket. A separate element that sits behind the lobe, held by a stud, so one pair of studs converts into several looks.
Cluster and halo. Describes the setting rather than the shape: many small stones grouped, as set out in what is a cluster ring, which applies equally to earrings.
The fittings, which matter more when buying antique
| Fitting | How it works | Period |
|---|---|---|
| Shepherd's hook | A wire through the ear, unsecured | Very old and still made |
| Kidney wire | A hook that closes into a loop | Victorian onwards |
| Screw back | A threaded post with a screw-on nut | Roughly 1900 to 1950 |
| Butterfly or push back | A post with a friction fitting | 1900s onwards, universal today |
| Lever back | A hinged wire that clicks shut | Late 1800s onwards, the most secure |
| Clip on | A sprung clip for unpierced ears | 1930s onwards |
| Screw clip | A clip tightened by a screw | 1930s to 1960s |
The fitting is one of the most reliable ways to date antique earrings, and it is also the part most often replaced, since fittings wear out and conversions from clip to pierced are extremely common. A period front on a modern post is a legitimate object, and it should be described as such.
A stud does not have to be a dot. Swedish sculptural work from 1980, sitting flat against the lobe. Sculptural Teardrop Studs, 14K gold, Sweden, 1980
What to check before buying antique earrings
Are they a true pair? Singles are sold as pairs surprisingly often after being reunited from different sources. Compare stone colour, wear and construction under a loupe.
Do the fittings match the fronts? Different gold colour at the join, or a modern post soldered to a Victorian front, indicates replacement.
Are the posts straight and full length? Posts get bent, shortened and thinned, and a thin post is a lost earring waiting to happen.
Weight. Heavy drops stretch piercings over years. If a pair is substantial, lever backs distribute the load far better than butterflies.
Climbers follow the ear upward instead of hanging from it, which is an old idea with a new name. Vintage Climber Studs, 18K gold
Frequently asked questions
What is the difference between a drop and a dangle earring?
A drop hangs relatively still below the ear; a dangle moves. The terms overlap and are used interchangeably by most sellers.
What is a huggie earring?
A small, thick hoop that sits closely against the lobe rather than swinging. It is a modern name for a long-established shape.
How can I date antique earrings?
By the fitting more than the front. Screw backs suggest roughly 1900 to 1950, clip fittings 1930s onwards, and lever backs late nineteenth century onwards.
Which earring fitting is most secure?
The lever back, because it closes positively rather than relying on friction. Butterflies loosen with wear and are the usual reason earrings go missing.
Can clip earrings be converted to pierced?
Usually yes, and it is common. It is a permanent alteration to the piece and should be disclosed when reselling.
Why do my earlobes hurt with heavy earrings?
Weight concentrated on one small point. Lever backs and larger backs spread the load, and very heavy antique drops are best worn occasionally.
What are ear jackets?
Separate ornaments that sit behind the lobe, held in place by a stud passing through them, so one pair of studs can be worn several ways.
Read next: What is a cluster ring? · How to layer necklaces · What is a rose cut diamond?
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